![]() ![]() At that size it it much easier to see the small changes when cycling in and out with the adjustment. Thus he recommended setting the reticle to a much lower setting like 6-7 power. ![]() He noted that when set to max power it is not uncommon to not be able to fine tune because the reticle looks sharp across a broad range of settings. But his method was the same except for the power adjustment. I heard another take on this on a podcast with some scope guru who’s name fails me now. This is with the scope at max power I’m guessing as the OP recommended. The fellow mentioned that he was unable to tell the difference when adjusting from one extreme to the other. I bring it up because one comment in that thread addressed this very subject. A well-disciplined shooting form that aligns your eye perfectly with the centerline of your scope helps minimizes the presence of parallax.After reading over the diopter adjustment thread I thought I’d add something that helped me tremendously.Make adjustments until the target is clear and the reticle remains precisely on the target, even when you move your head. Check for the presence of parallax at every target distance by moving your head slightly, checking to see if the reticle moves around on the target-if it does, parallax is present.If your scope has either an adjustable objective lens or side turret to correct parallax, leave it set at 100 yards (or to your anticipated shooting distance), adjusting only as needed.When you’re shooting at distances of 250 yards or less, parallax isn’t of much concern.No optics are completely free of the problem. While parallax is an optical illusion, it can still cause shooters to miss their target.In brief, here’s what hunters using riflescopes should know about parallax before heading afield. Once your target and reticle are crystal-clear and you can move your head slightly without the reticle moving off the target, you’re good to go. If you know how far it is to your target, you can set your parallax accordingly for that distance, but be prepared to make further adjustments. Many include yardage settings representing the distance at which the scope will be parallax-free, but those should be considered as guides only. The good news is, both systems are generally effective and reliable. It’s acknowledged to be more difficult to adjust when your cheek is welded to the stock, however, because you have to reach your free hand so far forward. The front objective lens system is the oldest, simplest and most economical of the two, so it’s most often found on lower-end riflescopes. Both serve to move an internal lens element, which in turn moves the location of the target image in your scope, allowing you to get it on the same focal plane as your reticle. Good form can help minimize parallaxįortunately, many modern riflescopes provide one of two ways to correct for parallax: an adjustable ring on the front objective lens, or an adjustable side turret. If the reticle moves around your target, parallax is present and you may miss your shot if you don’t compensate for it. To check for parallax before you shoot, look through your scope and slightly move your head side to side. ![]()
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